screw holes for the new bolts and then it's plug and play in the engine bay. Measure some voltages making sure they’re as expected. The car will be looking pretty awful, but things will get better! It looks like there’s a couple of options – there’s a simple tool that’s widely available that just seems to squash the bullet on 2 sides – it probably works OK-ish but wouldn’t be as good as a hex crimp, as the contact areas would be smaller between cable and crimp, and also moisture could enter the crimp quite easily I would think. At the fire wall you have to drill out the org. In the third-and-final part, I’ll discuss some of the changes I made to my new harness, mainly to make the car safer to use. Check out all the trailer lighting products available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 17,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. Hi Andrew, sorry for the slow reply – life getting in the way of things! The next challenge is removing it from the car. The adhesive degrades rapidly and you end-up with a horrible, sticky mess. Connect the yellow, white and brown wires of the harness to the like-colored wires on the trailer with butt connectors. As you do each one, refit the harness grommets. And it may be that you still want to refer to the old harness in later steps. In total there are 4 places where cables come through the bulkhead into the engine bay: Once done, move inside the car. Vehicle Wiring Products can supply the right ones. I also recommend that wherever the old loom is connecting to other wires or equipment, before disconnecting the wires make sure you can tell the terminal numbers or the colour-codes of the other wires, otherwise you’ll get into a mess here. It’s 3-pages in total, and is correct for a 1968 P5B (both Saloon and Coupe), although Rover sometimes made running changes, so I canât guarantee everything is correct for your car. In part 1, I talked about labelling the new wiring harness whilst itâs out the car, and whilst you still have the old harness in â¦ I had a couple questions, and judging by the lack of help I was able to find online, I thought I would put the information out there. H&S 100 Reusable Cable Ties: https://amzn.to/2Df7iJJ, Harness Tape. I also plan to write a series of articles explaining how each of the main circuits of the Rover P5 electrical system works, but thatâs for the (near) future. These are made for 1, 2, 3 and 5 cables. There was also the related issue that the engine-bay was looking very tired and dirty, and there was a lot of surface-rust in places, so sorting that was important as well. Make sure wires are routed as neatly as possible. And you should do it no matter you are installing a â¦ MuscleRodz. The harness uses high-quality thermal cross-linked wire with each wire labelled every 6 inches. I’d recommend fitting an inertia cut-off switch with an electric fuel pump. In case of problems, I can also see the other end connects to the Fusebox terminal 14. How To Rewire A Trailer Harness picture placed and submitted by Admin that kept in our collection. Also don’t forget to disconnect the reverse light switch and starter inhibitor switch cabling that run to the gearbox. Finally, there’s the centre console. I’m OK on the pump installation but need to fit a relay for it. You should use proper harness tape that doesnât have any adhesive and can be removed easily if needed. The 25 foot length will more than enough to run the wires from the junction box to trailer lights, so you'll basically cut off the 4-pole connector, wire it to the â¦ P5Bâs are simple in this regard – all were negative earth, and all P5Bâs used an alternator, not a dynamo. You’ll also find the starter relay to the left of the heater matrix. To add to this, my car had suffered a small engine fire a few years before I bought it. Disconnect the lights in the wings – there are bullet connectors at the front right and left of the engine bay. I have purchased a 7 blade wiring harness. Here’s a video I’ve posted about the whole re-wiring – well worth a watch (and a subscribe! I’ve always found Autosparks to be a quality company and they sell items that just aren’t available elsewhere. Throughout this process, it’s particularly important to work methodically and carefully. Now you need to connect the new harness. Not cheap, but half the price of other tools. Throughout this process I recommend trying to keep the old harness in one piece as far as possible – there may be wires, connectors, bulb holders or cables that you may need to re-use in some way when the new harness goes back in. Left side of bulkhead, behind left bonnet hinge. Start disconnecting the wires from the instruments, switches and warning / illumination lights, taking lots of photos. Thank You!â I’ve never fitted a relay before and I would be really grateful for your advice on where and how wire it up. Iâve recently finished replacing the wiring harness on my P5B Coupe with a âNew Old Stockâ harness, so it seems a good time to cover this in some detail in an article. Iâll talk more about how I adapted the harness a little later. The next step is to add each fuse in-turn, starting at the top, and test each circuit. Next, move to the left front footwell. Firstly, remove all the fuses from the fusebox. If I were you, I’d look at Autosparks website – they do a ratchet hex tool that creates a hex crimp, and it’s a lot less expensive than the other tools (about £50 inc. VAT currently). Modern cheap grommets are horrible in comparison. This is obviously a fire hazard and needed repairing. Unfortunately not only had they used the wrong harness from a different model with different wire colours (and hadnât removed redundant wires, but left them dangling in the engine bay), but they spliced the two harnesses together using about 60 bullet connectors, which are not the most reliable electrical connectors. It looks very expensive for what it does. How to Re-Wire Your Car (Replacing the Wiring Harness): Part 2, How to Re-Wire Your Car (Replacing the Wiring Harness): Part 1. Replies (2) Options Top. If not, I recommend grabbing a mug of tea and reading / watching those first – this will make a lot more sense. I found a couple of wires in the NOS harness that were different to the diagram – perhaps some of Roverâs undocumented running changes, or expediency by the harness supplier. Most P5 and P5B harnesses seem to use a combination of braided wire and PVC-insulated wire. This can be invaluable, and save you a great deal of heartache later. Perhaps Rover used this as an extra layer of protection against wire damage on the unfused supply wires? OK, I think this part is long enough. I recommend buying a selection of âLucarâ (6.3mm) crimp connectors and Bullet crimp connectors for different wire sizes. To do this you really need to remove the bonnet hinges – the harness snakes around the hinges after coming through the bulkhead into the engine bay, and it’s impossible to remove the old harness (or fit the new one) with the hinges in place. In part 1, I talked about labelling the new wiring harness whilst it’s out the car, and whilst you still have the old harness in your car to refer back to. And youâre not upside down under the dashboard when doing this, but standing comfortably getting a suntan in your garden. This was rather time-consuming, but invaluable in understanding the wiring and planning the changes I wanted. Most modern PVC cable is âthin-wallâ type so it takes-up less space in the harness – this is perfectly OK for classic cars as long as the conductor rating is correct. If you do buy this, let me know what you think of the tool, as its quite a problem if we need to pay £100 just to crimp a bullet connector. My car, like many classics of the period, had numerous places where the insulation on the old harness was fraying and cracked. It can certainly seem daunting, but if I can do it, you can do it! : In Part 2 Iâll cover in some detail the process to actually replace the harness in a Rover P5B. We sell & troubleshoot AEM, Hondata, Chipped ECU's, AIM Sports and MOTEC equipment. I did not do a huge amount, I had to rewire two sections of my main harness. If you are rewiring an early car or truck, make life easy on yourself and get a complete harness like this Painless Performance 18-circuit universal harness. Most changes happened at the major model changeovers between Mark I / IA / II / III / P5B, but between these there were lots of running changes, not all documented in the Workshop Manual. The support I received from New Wire Marine went above and beyond. I also recommend that if you need to replace any wiring, try to source the correct colour-coded wire of the same or larger conductor size. The tool is here: https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/wiring-tools/ratchet-hexagon-crimping-tool-ast1.html. Whilst time-consuming, this made the following steps much quicker and less daunting. As mentioned, try to preserve as much of the old harness as possible. Try to preserve any grommets that are in good condition – the original Lucas grommets are very soft and easy to fit, but are almost impossible to find. Alternatively, label the cables or terminals, but be sure the labels don’t fall-off! It has the wiring color coding on it and where each wire goes. You’ll need to get your hand in there to disconnect the Speedometer and the trip reset cable – this is easier if you first disconnect the other end of the trip reset cable from the dash rail. One incorrect wire can disable the whole car, so care is definitely needed. Copyright 2020 RoverP5.com. Do this at all 4 places the harness passes through the bulkhead, positioning the grommets correctly – these are absolutely necessary otherwise the panel will cut into the harness. Iâd then have a period-correct harness, adapted to exactly how I want it. This is a safeguard in case something’s wrong when you reconnect the battery. You shouldn’t see, hear or smell anything bad, and the fuse shouldn’t blow. I have an old cattle trailer that I am going to re-wire. I just did some searching and i’d guess the manufacturer has stopped producing them. Itâs also very useful if the lead is extra-long (Iâd suggest 3 metres), with a clip rather than a probe. It should go through eventually. I recommend this one – the crimped connectors look as good as the factory: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/269/ratchet-crimping-tool. Hope this is what you were looking for Posted from iOS app. Whether youâre replacing worn wires or upgrading to LEDs, learning how to rewire a trailer will allow you to tow safely and legally. How To Rewire A Trailer Harness have some pictures that related each other. Quite a few are out there, and they all work well. Just be aware that the 2 and 3 cable types are for connecting all 3 wires together – they arenât multi-pole. Terminals on the standard Rover harness were mainly both crimped and soldered, and thatâs what Iâd recommend if you replace any terminals. Now make-up a short cable with an inline fuse holder, and temporarily connect that to the positive battery lead. You’ll should see a bunch of bullet connectors pushed into the cavity on the left – disconnect these, taking lots of photos first. The relay energizes the solenoid. This made troubleshooting much easier, and once tested in the car I removed most of the flags (I left a few that were hidden – you never know if they may be useful in the future). I recommend a pen-type meter, as they allow you to see the display next to where youâre probing – much less chance of the probe slipping as you turn to look at the display. This is what I did, and at the same time I made a number of modifications to the harness (see later). Re-usable âVelcroâ Cable Ties: These are really handy if you need to unwrap any of the harness to get to wires – you can keep the harness together using these, and can easily move and re-use them as needed. The solenoid sends electricity to the starter and makes the drive gear move toward the clutch hub. An electrical rewire is one of the most disruptive jobs that can be applied to a house. Donât use the pre-insulated Lucar terminals – they look terrible and donât crimp or support the wire insulation properly. Rywire Motorsport Electronics specializes in wire-tuck (tucked), high performance, Mil-Spec engine harnesses. I hung the harness in the approximate layout it would sit in the car. So now you’re ready to remove the old wiring harness. If a fuse blows when inserted, you know that that circuit has a short, The only thing to do is trace that circuit, checking all connections carefully. Once the bonnet is off, push/pull the harness back through the bulkhead into the car. I recommend Tesa H5160803 Wiring Harness Harness Tape 19 mm x 15 m Roll: â¦ View Profile View Forum Posts Visit Homepage How do I rewire a cut harness car radio of a chrysler town country 2010 The originals 2harness were cut, I bougth - Chrysler Cars & Trucks question Step 1: Cut the power. AlxTgr LSU Fan Kyre Banorg Member since Oct 2003 69651 posts. The repairers had cut the old harness at the 4 places it passes through the firewall, and connected parts of another harness in the engine bay. There is a free PDF available from the Rover P5 Club for members, but as I wanted to make some changes I decided to create my own full-colour circuit diagrams of the complete P5B electrical system. Now is a good time to re-fit the bonnet and hinges, making sure to route the harness neatly around the hinges, and replace the plastic edge-trim that prevents the hinge cutting-into the harness. The bending motion is like you are trying to feed wire around a corner. The 5 cable version is multi-pole. The ground wire connects to the black wire on the stereo harness. Once every wire is free, the binnacle front can be removed, This is a great time to recondition the binnacle or the instruments themselves. The overall layout I used is somewhat similar to the free PDF version as that seems the most logical layout, so thanks are due for inspiration to the Club Member who created that version. 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